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Ah, the joy of having your own in ground pool in your backyard. A little piece of paradise for your enjoyment anytime you wish. A place for the grandkids to romp, a place for poolside parties, and a quiet refuge for you and your spouse to share a quiet swim and good conversation together. So much for the good weather in the summer. But now, fall approaches, and with that portion of the calendar edging ever closer, you realize that winter is also approaching. Winter: that time of year where the physics of freezing water may soon lay waste to the closed piping system of your pool. Yes, that pesky expansion of liquid water as it moves below the 32 degree Fahrenheit barrier will produce, wonder of wonders, a solid form of said water. Yep, the formation of ice will provide sufficient energy to crack even the toughest Schedule 40 PVC pipe. And with an in ground pool, one of those fractured pipes will be certain to occur underground, leaving you with a forensic nightmare come the spring thaw. Those of us lucky enough to live in regions where winters are winters will have to keep the above 7th grade science lesson in mind as we close our pools. Ok, your kids' college fall semester has begun, and the grandkids are back in their schools as well. By (thankfully) a unanimous decision with your spouse, the realization comes that it is now time to close the pool. (Sigh) A few days before the mechanical type actions, add a phosphate removal chemical to the water. Then go ahead and brush the sidewalls and vacuum. Hey, this is the last time this calendar year you have to mess with those vacuum hoses! Be thankful for that. If you have metals rich water, you might consider using a "Metal Free" type additive as well. Next, make sure that the water has a total alkalinity of 120 to 140 ppm. Also adjust the pH to 7.4 to 7.6. These steps may require a trip to the Pool Store for a water test. Now let the pump run for a few days. Now comes the fun part. Dose the pool with a good quality algae control. Let the pump run for another hour or so. You want to insure that the algaecide is thoroughly distributed in the water system. Then drain the pool level down below the skimmer intake level by at least 2 or 3 inches, using the pool's pump. Note: If your pool does not have a return on the bottom of the pool, you will have to use a submersible pump to get the water level low enough. Now comes the really fun part. Remove all of the drain plugs from the filter pump system. These will include the pump strainer basket housing, filter tank, automatic chlorinator, and heater. Some pump assemblies have two drain plugs: be sure to check if this is your first time winterizing your pool. It is also a must to unscrew the pressure gage from the top of the filter body, and also remove that glass thingy that lets you see the water get clear when you backwash. Be careful, though, as there is a rubber flap in the sight glass you don't want to lose. I put the drain plugs, gage, etc. in the pump strainer basket so I know where they are next spring. I learned that trick the hard way after a long search for those parts one spring. I had put them right where I thought I would remember. Next, remove the return jets (I have three in my pool) and replace with winterizing plugs. The water level need not be below the return jet elevation. Take the basket out of the skimmer. Did I say you needed a shop vacuum? Well, you need a shop vacuum. Take the caps off of your return and supply lines, and use to vacuum to suck out as much water as you can get. Then use it to suck any water out of the skimmer as well. Stick the vacuum hose down the skimmer return line as far as you can. Now is the time to add antifreeze to these now open lines. Use RV Antifreeze you can buy at any auto parts store or supercenter. This stuff is usually pink, and is marked for RV water systems, not the radiator. It works as well as the expensive "pool" antifreeze some pool stores sell. This should save you a couple of bucks a gallon. Fill the lines as full as you can, then screw the caps back on the return and supply lines. For the skimmer you will need a Gizmo, a device you screw into the bottom of the skimmer. It will expand if the skimmer fills with water and freezes during the winter. It also makes sense to pour a little antifreeze in the skimmer after you put the Gizmo in place. Finally turn off the main power supply to the pump, heater, and lights. If your pump is on a timer, you should probably remove the little "on" and "off" trip levers from the timer. A trash barrel with a secure lid is a great place to store your pool vacuum hose and other items. Drill some holes in the bottom of the trash barrel. That will let any water drain out. Take an inventory of your pool toys, floats, etc. Fall is a great time to cull the toys that have not survived the previous summer. Somehow, at our house, the carnage of the summer play always leaves a pile of broken squirt guns, deflated rafts, and a plethera of goggles with broken straps. Best be rid of these remains now: you will be glad you did next spring. Now comes the nemesis of all pool owners: the pool cover. Surprise! I don't use a pool cover. After a few seasons of struggling with a cover, I decided to stop using one. I had to pump water off of it all winter, and then upon removal the next spring, I always managed to dump most of the dirt, leaves and crud into the pool anyway. Some will swear that over-winter debris will stain your pool, but with proper chemicals added in the fall, our fiberglass pool has never suffered from stains in the spring. (Disclaimer: If you are the least bit concerned about pets or people falling into the pool over the winter, please, please invest in a penetration proof cover. A pool cover not rated for safety can be as much a hazard as no cover at all.) In the spring, start to remove the leaves and debris a week or so before opening. Simply use your net, and push it across the bottom and scoop out the leaves. The water will get cloudy, but just let it settle, and continue the next day. After two or three days, most of the leaves and debris will be out of your pool. You have to vacuum at the opening anyway. This system works well for me. Remember; make sure you have the correct chemicals, in the right proportions, to start the winter month's rest for your pool. Sit back, relax, and dream of next spring. It will be here sooner than you think. And remember, when it is time to open your pool next season, you know right where the drain plugs, gages, and all that other stuff is stored, right? |
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